The Pacific Whaling Experience without the whales

This morning was an early start for our Kaikoura canyon cruise.  The seafloor drops dramatically just off shore into one of the deepest ocean trenches in the world.  The canyon drops to a mile deep making it an ideal location for feeding grounds for the great sperm whales.  This whales grow to 60 feet long and are the largest sea predators, eating fish, squid and seals.  This is some of the information shared at the Kaikoura Whale welcome center where we boarded the bus to go to our 50 foot ocean going cruiser, the Aoraki.  They warned that the sea was rough, but we decided we could make it. 

The ship was fitted with ocean listening devices that they could listen the whales sonar, but apparently the whales were father out to sea. 

We did see Hector and Dusty dophins (which are species unique to this area) racing along to see us. 

We saw an Albatross, which is a huge seabird with a 6 foot wing span. They migrate 1000s of miles across the ocean, and can even fly while they sleep.  He doesn't look as big just floating in the sea, but we were a good way out.

We also saw beautiful views of the Southern Alps above the emerald green sea. 




The marina was very unusual to us because all these long ocean going vessels were pulled out and parked.  Each seemed to have its own personal tractor dedicated to the trailers they sat on.

Before we left town we decided to stop by the Paua factory store to look at the beautiful shells again, and a grocery store for a few essentials - Coke Zero (in 8 oz cans), apples and shaving cream.

Tramping in Kaikoura

 We had cereal and fruit for breakfast this morning with and awesome view of the southern end of the New Zealand Alps.  This view has the Pacific Ocean in the foreground and everything was clear and beautiful.

We were disappointed this morning that our whaling exploration was cancelled due to the high winds.  So as an alternative we did a little shopping and then took a trek. 

 We found a jewelry factory that made New Zealand unique pieces out of paua shell and whale bone.  It was fascinating to see all the beautiful things that they made and know that the materials, design, and craftsmanship were all local.  It is illegal to kill whales in New Zealand, but they have a supply of whale bones over time from stranded animals who die on the coast.  They had whale carvers who made jewelry pieces in Maori motifs.  We bought this one, which is a "hook" motif with the meaning of leadership and opportunity.  They also had beautiful pendants made from Pauo, the ocean mother of pearl shell, New Zealand Abalone. 

After our jewelry studying, we took a trek for one and a half miles on a trail along the cliffs of the peninsula. After we climbed the first hill, we found a locked gate (obviously keeping the sheep in), however there was a clever double step built into the fence to help walkers along there way.  I guess the sheep couldn't figure this one out!


 There were beautiful views all along the way of the limestone cliffs and the shoal rocks on the beach below. 

The trail that  ran along the side of farm land with sheep, of course, was clear but also marked with interesting post markers designed with Maori art. 

There was a colony of fur seals living on the rock shelf jutting out into the bay.  They were not very energetic and we never saw them in the water. However we did find one straddling the wooden boardwalk when we returned from our walk.

I did find some very unusual sea shells while climbing around on the rocks.  When I get home I am going to try to identify them. 

After our walk, we drive back down the Point Road to a world famous, roadside barbeque.  Of course they sold crawfish, so Tom and I shared one.

Actually the crayfish was very good and the ambiance was terrific.
 

There was also a very interesting World War I memorial park on the Point Road.  Since timber was scarce during WWI, there was a woman in Kaikoura who used whale bones to create an arched walkway through the park.  Strangely beautiful and memorial. 

The Point B&B in Kaikoura

We followed the highway through the tunnels along the coast to the pretty little seaside town of Kaikoura.  

 When we arrived in Kaikoura, we followed our directions around the water front to a farm house on the water, called The  Point B&B.  There was a field of calla lilies and a small fenced in yard with sheep in front.  The is a family sheep farm, where the hostess was raised in the home she and her husband now shared.

We have a comfortable room with a little electric radiator for heat, which worked pretty well. 

Our Room at The Point B&B

 They had a little garden, this was the view from our side bedroom window. 

Glad to find gasoline

These huge Norfolk Pines lined the coastline in Kaikoura. 

With the empty line on, we made it into this petrol station for a fill-up.  The gasoline, of course, was sold by the liter and we calculated that this gas was over $6.00 a gallon. 

The name Kaikoura apparently means "Eating crayfish" in Maori.  Fresh crayfish, which is really a New Zealand lobster sort of seafood, was a specialty at the Pier Hotel where we had dinner. 

The Road to Kaikoura

The only road between Hanmer Springs and Kaikoura was a twisty road through the moutains.  The bridges were all single lane and some with dramatic views of the river.  It was an accidental joy to drive this way. 

 If you saw a fenced in field there were always sheep in it. These mountains were rolling and grassy.   

Single lane bridge.

Waiau was a little town along the way in the bend of the Waiau River. 

 All along the river there were huge leafy trees that were just filling out.  They looked like big spring green marshmallows. 

When we reached the rocky coastline, there were a series of tunnels where the road paralleled the Pacific Ocean. 

Hamner Springs and NC State Football

Sunday morning at the Annerleigh, we had and excellent breakfast and enjoyed our conversation with two other couples who were there from Australia. The velvet chairs were pulled up to the table set with white linen table cloth and pink rosebud china.  We had granola, mixed fruit (including kiwi), coffee, juice and wonderful bacon and eggs. The two other couples were headed off on a long bicycle ride for the day in the rain. 

The Host of the B&B was able to get the NC State game on his projection TV so we were delighted to get to share in the game live. Since we are now living 14 hours ahead of EDT, Sunday morning at 9:00 AM was the start time for the 3:00 Saturday game. It was nice to see our stadium full of enthusiastic supporters.  Although State lost the game to #1 ranked FL State, we played an exciting, competitive game that was fun to watch.  Maybe they could hear us cheering all the way from New Zealand.

 After the football game, We checked out of the B&B and we headed to Hanmer Hot Springs.  This is a recreation area built over the natural geothermal hot springs, which included a series of hot sulfur pools, aqua therapy pools, and play space - all with heated water.  It was misty and cold when we got there, but we had a great time and tried several pools.  My favorite was an aqua therapy pool with hot, jet force streams so strong you could barely stand against them.  We were thoroughly relaxed after this, and had a late lunch at the cafe on the property. 

Hanmer Springs

We drove to Hamner Springs last night through beautiful countryside north of Christchurch.  We stayed at the Annerleigh Bed and Breakfast.  This was a charming place built recently just to be a bed and breakfast with beautiful amenities and a view over looking the mountains. 

Dinner was at the Restaurant 31, we had to go at 5:30 pm to get a reservation, but the food was delicious.  Afterwards we found a snack bar and got ice cream cones before we went back to the B&B to crash.